"You should have been here last week/month/year!" is
the knee-jerk reaction I've come to expect - and
dread - in every season of the year, somewhere around the
globe. When I spent a large chunk of January turning rusty on the Costa del Sol, it
was "freak weather"; when I had to flee
south of Marrakech in December as torrential floods had wiped out several roads,
part of the railway line and hundreds of mud brick houses, they claimed it was
unbelievable.
Then there were the winter wash-outs in Tahiti, or the time I spent during an
Australian summer being cling-filmed in dust by the willy-willies -
the violent tropical storms that can hit the north coast. Sure, Down Under is the
place to escape our winter, but only in some places Down Under. Even
Melbourne's climate can change as much as four times in the
course of one day, and Sydney is regularly dowsed, while summer monsoons can
bring down rainfall in buckets on the hot and steamy Barrier Reef holiday
playgrounds.
In order to be a really slick traveller, one who knows to avoid Mal in June, Mali in
August and Mah in December, you would need to carry around the weather charts
in the Directory; but there are a few rules that have
helped me decide whether to pack my swimsuit and beach mat or brolly and
thermals.
For a start, any temperature above about
27C in humid Turkish-bath zones or
30C in dry climes precludes vigorous
exploration and activity for most, while anything below
17C means lots of walkabouts and
sightseeing but no beach.
The sad sight of winter holiday-makers huddled over Trivial Pursuits in all too many
rainswept and deserted Mediterranean resorts has taught me to distrust the
Med's winter weather. Sizzling or drizzling, it's
always a gamble; and there's a particular cloud that arrives in
southern Europe around the third week in October (a month later in Cyprus,
Lebanon, North Africa and other southern Mediterranean resorts) that sends a
message warning beach-dwellers that their time is up.
Cold, hard statistics reveal that Gibraltar or Haifa have nearly twice as much rainfall
as London in January, which in turn is drier than the Algarve, Monaco and even
Cyprus and Malta, not to mention Istanbul in February.
Even in that so-called winter sun Mecca, Tenerife (on the same latitude as Delhi and
parts of Florida), a daily cloud arrives at 2 pm at the lush northern resort of Puerto
Cruz, while on the other side of the island the sun shines evenly all day on the bare
slopes and concrete jungle of Playa de las Americas - which is
why the north is lush and the south barren. Eilat, Israel's winter
offering, can also be grey and grizzling in January, though at least you can get
away from the weather by exploring the resort's technicolour
wonders below sea level.
But if it's winter sunshine you're after,
you'll have to head at least as far south as Luxor, while the
cheapest guaranteed hot stuff can be found in Gambia, followed by high
probabilities in Goa and the Kenyan coast. Alas, the Caribbean is at its most pricey
and exclusive during our winter.
Wherever you are travelling in desert conditions, you'll find
surprisingly large diurnal variations with cool, even cold, snaps at night and at
dawn. But on and around the equator you'll need to overdose on
anti-perspirant as it is nearly always hot and humid. There are so few seasonal
variations there that you find yourself dreaming wistfully of spring flowers in the
Lake District, the autumn wine harvest in Provence or fall in New England. And just
to remind you of the vagaries of weather, The Times
carried a picture of New England under deep snow at the beginning of April this
year.
>From trial and error in the tropics, I've at least learned that
December to February are the most tolerable months in which to tackle Bangkok,
but that in the same months it is so steamy and wet in Singapore you
won't ever get your smalls dry unless you have a hotel room with
air conditioning.
Weather in the Far East, generally, can present tricky problems, even within the
same or neighbouring countries. Backpackers who have boned up on their weather
charts will know that the May rains signal the end of the tourist season in Phuket
and that they must migrate to Koh Samui, moving on from there to Bali for their fun
in July, August and September. Malaysia, and even relatively small islands such as
Sri Lanka, have considerable climatic variations - bi-annual heavy
rainfalls often happen at night, but winds can make the sea rough and dangerous
for bathing during the day. And remember that in both of these countries
- and others - where you can move from steamy
lowlands to cool highlands in a few hours, you need to pack sweaters for evenings
alongside your sun hat for midday.
The rains, both long and short, fall somewhere in Africa throughout the year: from
December to February in Zimbabwe and southern Africa, March to May in Kenya
and Tanzania; May to August in Cape Town. From November to February, just
when holiday-makers are being lured to the Seychelles and Mauritius by the
eternal sunshine on the glossy brochure covers, these Indian Ocean playgrounds
are getting their biggest annual soaking - whereas they are both
ideal escapes during our summer months, when the Med resorts have become
blowsy with tourists.
East Africa's safari season runs during the dry months from
December to April, when the grasses are low for better game spotting, and the
animals will seek out and congregate around water-holes rather than dispersing
through the bush. But even here, alas, the rains don't always
watch the calendar, and timing can often be a matter of luck. It took me several
false starts before I caught the beginning of the migration in Serengeti
- but the brief moments before dawn waiting for the sun to rise
over the flat endless plains, surrounded by the shadowy silhouettes of millions of
wildebeest on their starting blocks, are heart-stopping memories that will last a
lifetime.
Even if you get your timing wrong, there are other compensations: some countries are
almost reborn with changes of weather, none more so than Africa. Unexpected
early rains in Botswana once turned my dry and dusty campsite into a Garden of
Eden overnight as we awoke to a Jungle Book fantasy of
monkeys chattering in the trees, impala playing in the bush and dragonflies and
butterflies dazzling us with their pirouettes.
I witnessed as one of the driest places on earth, the Namib Desert, was almost
transformed into an Irish meadow by rain after several years of drought, so heaven
knows what the unique species that have adapted to this burning environment
must have made of it. The desert onyx has developed a brain irrigated by a special
network of veins that enables it to withstand fiery temperatures, while the dune
beetle does handstands each morning to let droplets of Atlantic fog roll down into
its mouth. More soberly, in such communities, you learn to realise that the weather
is a matter of death or life.
Moving across from Africa to the Atlantic, anyone who believes that
America's weather is a breeze may be in for some shocks. The
wettest place I've been is Hawaii, where I was stuck for days
waiting for a helicopter trip to photograph the volcanoes, of which I got no glimpse.
The hottest I've felt was in the humid concrete canyons of New
York, though body temperatures plummeted to sub-Arctic levels in the icy air
conditioning of the Big Apple's restaurants, hotels and even
cabs.
It was Mark Twain who said "The coldest winter I ever spent was
summer in San Francisco." British holiday-makers should take
note of this, before flocking in droves to visit Florida when it's
almost guaranteed to be humid and wet, the Everglades'
mosquitoes are at their most bloodthirsty, and there's a real
likelihood of hurricanes as well.
After 20 years of travelling from Alaska to Zanzibar, writing hundreds of travel articles
and answering thousands of questions on radio and television phone-ins,
I've learned to identify the hardy perennials:
"How much?", "What
are the beaches like?", "Is it safe and can
you drink the water in...?"
I express my opinion on a few general rules, pull out some statistics and weather
charts, and then get myself off the hook with warnings that little complications such
as the meltemi, the mistral or the
sirocco winds can make a mockery of the most reliable
Mediterranean temperature statistics; that you can get a deep suntan north of the
Arctic Circle, or catch pneumonia in the desert - in other words,
that the world's weather can be astonishingly unpredictable.
What would we have to talk about if it wasn't?