If you have a roomy vehicle, are not worried about weight and are not
constantly on the move, you might as well plan to make yourselves as comfortable as
possible. Do not stint on things that seem frivolous before you leave but can make
an enormous difference to morale. This is particularly true if camping.
Fragile items and paperwork, which must be kept away from dust and water, are best
kept in cases with watertight silicone gasket seals. These come in many sizes, with
foam inserts that you can customise to fit fragile equipment. These cases are so
effective that even if you have descended a thousand feet down an escarpment,
you have to release the purge button before you can open them.
Cases containing clothes can be sealed with strips of foam. Good strong cases are
now available in polypropylene, but are usually styled in awkward rounded-off
shapes. Fibre suitcases are available in squared-off shapes that pack more
efficiently, but they loose their shape if they get wet. Using cleats to lash the
baggage down will keep things in place and cut down on annoying rattles.
If you plan to sleep outdoors without a tent you will need a mosquito net in many
areas. There are several types on the market, but they are not usually big enough
to tuck in properly all the way round the mattress, thus ensuring that no gaps have
been left. The best types are designed like a tent, with supporting poles and a
sewn-in groundsheet. Ex-military mosquito nets have the extra advantage of
needing only one point of suspension; a camera tripod or ice axe will do for this if
there is not a vehicle or tent nearby.
Malaria is an increasingly serious problem, so it is worth getting a net that is already
impregnated with insecticide. On a long journey, carry a can of the correct
insecticide to re-impregnate the net every so often.
If you do sleep without a tent, make a note of where the sun should rise and position
yourself to be in the shade at dawn, or the sun could wake you up earlier than you
would like.
A full-length roof rack covered in plywood not only makes a good sleeping platform
but acts as a double skin, keeping the vehicle cooler in sunny conditions.
Mattresses
You should not sleep directly on the ground in cold places, so use some form of
insulation. Air-beds are very comfortable and are preferred by some to foam, but
they do have disadvantages: they are generally too heavy to carry unless you have
a vehicle and inflating them is hard work. Thorns and sunlight both work against
them and you will certainly spend a lot of time patching holes.
If you decide to use one, be sure it is made of rubber and not plastic, and only pump it
up until it is half-full. If you inflate it any harder you will roll around and probably fall
off. Perspiration condenses against the surface of air mattresses, and on cold
nights you will wake up in a puddle of cold water unless you have put a blanket or
woollen jumper between yourself and the mattress.
Camp beds tend to be narrow, collapse frequently, tear holes in the groundsheet and
soon break up altogether. Even worse, cold air circulates underneath the bed
because your body weight compresses the bedding. Only several layers of
blankets under you will give you the insulation you need.
Open-cell foam mattresses are comfortable but often too thin, so it is best to have two
thicknesses, or else to put a closed-cell foam mattress, such as a Karrimat, on the
ground and an open-cell foam mattress on top of it. Open-cell mattresses wear
quickly, but if you make washable cotton covers that fully enclose them, they will
last for several years. Foam mattresses, being bulky, are best wrapped in strong,
waterproof covers during transport. One advantage of foam mattresses is that the
perspiration that collects in them evaporates very quickly when they are aired,
making them easy to keep fresh and dry. Remember to give the foam an airing
every second day.
The most popular mattresses these days are self-inflating ones. As with air-beds, a
blanket or sweater between your sleeping bag and the mattress will help to keep
you warmer in really cold climates.
Closed-cell foam mats, such as the Karrimat, also come in a 3 mm thickness, which is
suitable for putting under a groundsheet for protection against sharp stones or ice,
where otherwise the tent groundsheet could stick to the ice and be torn when trying
to get it free.
On a long overland trip, you can combat changing conditions with a combination of
two sleeping bags. First get a medium-quality, nylon-covered, down sleeping bag
and, if you are tall, make sure it is long enough for you. This bag will be the one
you use most often for medium-cold nights. Secondly, get a cheap all-synthetic
bag, i.e. one filled with artificial fibre. These cheap, easily washable bags are best
for use alone on warmer nights and outside the down bag for very cold nights.
Make sure the synthetic bag is big enough to go outside the down bag, without
compressing the down bag when it is fully lofted up.
In polar and high mountain areas, the golden rule when travelling is never to be
parted from your own sleeping bag, in case a blizzard or accident breaks up the
party. This would hold true when travelling anywhere that is cold.
Furniture and utensils
If folding chairs or stools are covered with cotton, the fabric rots quickly in intense
sunlight; take nylon- or Terylene-covered chairs instead. Full-size ammunition
boxes are good for protecting kitchenware and make good seats, too.
When buying utensils, go for dull-grey aluminium billies. The shiny type tend to crack
and split with repeated knocks and vibration. Billies, pots and pans, plates, mugs,
cutlery, etc., should be firmly packed inside boxes, with cloth or thin foam
separating metal utensils and cutlery or they will rub against each other and
become covered in a mass of metal filings. A pressure cooker will guarantee sterile
food and can double as a large billy so, if you have room, it is a good investment.
Kettles with lids are preferable to whistling kettles, which are difficult to fill from cans
or streams. For melting snow and ice, it is best to use billies. Aluminium billies are
best bought at Army and Navy auctions or surplus stores. If you are flying to the
Third World, good alternatives will be readily available in local markets.
A wide range of non-breakable cups and plates are available, but you will find that
soft plastic mugs leave a bad after-taste, so it is better to pay a little more and get
melamine. Stick to large mugs with firm, wide bases that will not tip over easily.
Insulated mugs soon become smelly and unhygienic because dirt and water get
between the two layers and cannot be cleaned out.
Many people like metal mugs, but if you like your drinks hot you may find the handle
too hot to touch or burn your lips on the metal. Melamine mugs soon get stained
with tea or coffee, but there are cleaners available. Alternatively, Steradent tablets
are a perfectly adequate and cheaper substitute. Heavyweight stainless steel
cutlery is much more durable than aluminium, something to remember when
planning a long expedition.
Ex-military plastic jerrycans are best for carrying water as they are light-proof. This
means algae will not grow inside - as it does with normal plastic
containers.
Stoves and gas
The 2.7 kg cartridge or the 4.5 kg gas
cylinder are the best sizes to carry. Gas is the easiest and cleanest fuel to use for
cooking.
Liquid petroleum gas is usually called Calor Gas or butane in the
UK and by various oil company names worldwide, such as
Shellgas or Essogas. Though available worldwide, there are different fittings on the
cylinders in different countries and these are not interchangeable. Where you use
a pressure-reduction valve on a low-pressure appliance, there will always be a
rubber tube connection. Make sure that you carry some spare lengths of the
correct size of rubber tubing.
Gas cylinders are heavy and refilling can be difficult. Refillable Camping Gaz
cylinders, as supplied in Europe, are intended to be factory refilled, but in some
countries, Algeria, Morocco and Yemen, for example, they are available with an
overfill release valve, so that you can fill them yourself from a larger domestic
butane gas supply.
In Asia, enterprising campsite managers and gas suppliers have discovered ways of
filling gas cylinders from their supply. You should stand well clear while they do this
as the process involves pushing down the ball valve with a nail or stone, then over-
filling from a supply of gas kept under higher pressure. This operation can cause
flare-up problems when the cylinder is first used with standard cooking equipment,
so if you use such a source of supply it is advisable to release some of the
pressure by opening the valve for a couple of minutes (well away from any flame)
before connecting up.
Lighting any stove is always a problem in cold climates or at altitude. Local matches
never work, unless you strike three together, so take a good supply of the
household size. The best solution seems to be a butane cigarette lighter, kept in
your trouser pocket where it will be warm. Remember to carry plenty of refills.
There are many good camping gas stoves available, but when cooking for large
groups outside, I prefer to use the large cast-iron gas rings used by builders to melt
bitumen. These are wide and heavy, remain stable when very large billies are used
and do not blow out in the wind. In cold areas, try to get propane gas instead of
butane.
If gas supplies are a problem, there are good twin-burner stoves that use unleaded
petrol or kerosene. There are single-burner, multi-fuel stoves, that will also operate
on diesel fuel.
Space blankets
Space blankets are, on the evidence, not much better than a polythene sheet or bag.
Body perspiration tends to condense inside them, making the sleeping bag wet so
that the person inside gets cold. In hot or desert areas, however, used in reverse
to reflect the sun, they are very good at keeping a tent or vehicle cool during the
heat of the day. If necessary, a plastic sheet or space blanket can be spread over
a ring of boulders to make an effective bath; they are also ideal for making desert
stills.
Buying
When buying equipment, be especially wary of any shop that calls itself an expedition
supplier but does not stock the better brands of equipment. All the top-class
equipment suppliers will give trade discounts to genuine expeditions or group
buyers, such as clubs or educational establishments, and some, such as Field and
Trek and Cotswold Camping, have special contract departments for this service.
Check-list
For a party of four with no worries about travelling light:
1. Good compass, maps and
guidebooks, plus a Global Positioning System (GPS) receiver
if travelling off-road.
2. Selection of plastic bags for
packing, waste disposal, etc.
3. Clingfilm and aluminium foil
for food and cooking.
4. Large bowl for washing up
and washing.
5. Four 20 litre water cans
- strong ex-military type (polypropylene).
6. Fire extinguisher.
7. Large supply of paper
towels, toilet paper, scouring pads, dishcloths and tea towels.
8. Large supply of good
matches in waterproof box and/or disposable lighters.
9. Washing-up liquid for dishes
(also good for cleaning mechanics' greasy hands).
10. Frying pan.
11. Pressure cooker.
12. Selection of strong
saucepans or billies.
13. Kettle with lid (not whistling
type, which is difficult to fill from cans or streams).
14. Tin opener
- good heavyweight or wall type.
15. Stainless steel cutlery.
16. Plastic screw-top jars for
sugar, salt, washing powder, etc (Nalgene are the best).
17. Large, sharp bread knife.
18. Two small, sharp vegetable
knives.
19. Kitchen scissors.
20. Large serving spoon and
soup ladle.
21. Plates and/or bowls for
eating.
22. Wide-base mugs that do
not tip over easily.
23. Good twin burner for your
gas supply, otherwise petrol or kerosene twin-burner cooker -
multi fuel single-burner stoves are available that will work with diesel fuel.
24. Good sleeping bags or
sleeping bag combinations for the climate expected, plus mattresses of your
choice.
25. Mosquito nets.
26. Combined mosquito and
insect repellent spray.
27. Battery-powered
fluorescent light.
28. Four lightweight folding
chairs.
29. Short-handled hand axe,
for wood fires.
30. Thin nylon line to use as
clothes line, plus clothes pegs.
31. Washing powder for
clothes.
32. Two separate six-metre
lengths of plastic tubing, one to fill water tank or water cans. the other for fuel cans.
33. Two tubes of universal
glue/sealant.
34. Chamois leather.
35. Sponges.
36. Six heavy rubber
'tie downs'.
37. Water purification filters
plus tablets or iodine as back-up.
38. Phrasebooks/dictionaries.
39. Two torches plus spare
batteries.
40. Ordinary scissors.
41. Small plastic dustpan and
brush.
42. Soap, shampoo,
toothpaste, towels.
43. Medical first aid kit, plus
multivitamins and rehydration salts.
44. Elastic bands, sewing kit
and safety pins.
45. Cassette player and
selection of cassettes (it is not advisable to use CD players in
rough conditions).
46. Selection of reading
material, including books on local flora and fauna plus AA
multilingual vehicle parts guide.
47. Hidden strongbox and
money belt.
48. Passports, visas,
travellers' cheques, cash, vaccination certificates, car papers,
insurance papers, UK and international driving licences,
permission to drive letter (if you do not own the vehicle), photocopies of travel and
medical insurance policies and six (per person) spare passport photographs.
Many other things can be taken along, but most of these are personal belongings.
They include: dental floss; waterproof watch; tissues (good for many other reasons
besides blowing your nose); clothing, including a tie (for men) for formal occasions
(store it rolled up in a jar with a lid) or a dress (for women on that same occasion),
jackets, waterproofs, gloves, swimming costume, sweaters, parkas with hoods;
moisturising cream; toothbrush; comb; Swiss Army knife; Leatherman-type tool or
SpydeRench; camera; film; photographic accessories; anti-malaria tablets and salt
tablets, where required; sun barrier cream; sunglasses; medicines; spare
prescription spectacles if worn; insurance papers; airmail writing paper; envelopes
and pens.
If you carry a portable computer, make sure that it is protected by a padded,
waterproof case, can be charged from the vehicle battery and is regularly backed
up to removable media to cover failure of the hard disc or computer theft. If you
can afford, it there are also portable satellite telephones that will work anywhere in
the world you can get to in a wheeled vehicle.