The donkey is the most desirable beast of burden for the novice and remains the favourite of the more experienced camper - if only because the donkey carries all the traveller's equipment, leaving him free to enjoy the countryside unburdened. Although small and gentle, the donkey is strong and dependable; no pack animal excels him for sure-footedness or matches his character. He makes the ideal companion for children old enough to travel into the mountains or hills, and for the adult who prefers to travel at a pace slow enough to appreciate the scenery, wildlife and wilderness that no vehicle can reach.

The rock climber, hunter, fisherman, scientist or artist who has too much gear to carry into the mountains may prefer to take the larger and faster mule, but if they are sensible, they will practice first on the smaller and more patient donkey. The principles of pack animal management are the same, but the mule is stronger, more likely to kick or bite if provoked, and requires firmer handling than the donkey. The advantage of a mule is obvious. Whereas a donkey can only carry about 50 kg, the mule, if expertly packed, can carry a payload of 100 kg. Although both are good for 24 km a day on reasonable trails, the donkeys will have to be led on foot; whereas mules, which can travel at a good speed, require everyone to be mounted, unless their handlers are fast hikers.

Planning

To determine the number of donkeys needed before a trip, the approximate pack load must be calculated. The stock requirement for a ten-day trip can be calculated by dividing the number of people by two, but taking the higher whole number if the split does not work evenly. Thus, a family of five would take three donkeys. It is difficult to control more than ten donkeys on the trail, so don't use them with a party of 20 or more unless certain individuals are prepared to carry large packs to reduce the number of animals. Mules are usually led by a single hiker or are tied in groups of not more than five animals led by a man on horseback. This is the 'string' of mules often mentioned in Westerns; each lead rope passes through the left-hand breech ring of the preceding animal's harness and is then tied around the animal's neck with a bowline. One or more horses are usually sent out with the pack mules because mules respect and stick close to these 'chaperones'.

Whichever method you decide to use, don't prepare a detailed itinerary before your journey; wait and see how you get on during the first few days, when you should attempt no more than 12-16 km a day. Later you will be able to average 20-24 km, but you should not count on doing more than 24 km a day although it is possible, with early starts and a lighter load, if you really have to.

Campers who use pack animals seldom restrict themselves to the equipment list of a backpacker. There is no need to do so, but before preparing elaborate menus and extensive wardrobes, you would do well to consider the price of hiring a pack animal. The more elaborate and heavy your equipment, the more donkeys or mules there are to hire, load, unload, groom and find pasture for. In selecting your personal equipment you have more freedom - a 'Karrimat', or a larger tent instead of the small 'Basha'- but it should not exceed 12 kg and should be packed into several of those small cylindrical soft bags or a seaman's kit-bag. You can take your sleeping bag as a separate bundle and take a small knapsack for those personal items such as spare sweaters, camera, first aid kit and snacks required during the day. But there are some special items you will require if you are not hiring an efficient guide and handler: repair kit for broken pack saddles and extra straps for mending harnesses. An essential item is a 45 kg spring scale for balancing the sacks or panniers before you load them on the pack animals in the morning. Remember, too, that each donkey/mule will be hired out with a halter, lead rope, tow 'sacks', a pack cover, and a nine-metre pack rope. In addition, there will be pickets and shackle straps, curry combs, frog picks, canvas buckets, tools and possibly ointment or powders to heal saddle sores.

Animal handling

The art of handling pack animals is not a difficult one, but unfortunately you cannot learn it entirely from a book. With surprisingly little experience in this field, the novice soon becomes an expert packer, confident that he can handle any situation that may arise on the trail and, above all, that he has learnt the uncertain science of getting the pack animal to do what he wants it to do. The donkey is more responsive than the mule and is quick to return friendship, especially if he knows he is being well packed, well fed and well rested. The mule tends to be more truculent, angry and resentful until he knows who is in charge. Therefore, an attitude of firmness and consideration towards the animal is paramount.

Perhaps the easiest way to learn the techniques of handling pack animals is to look at a typical day and consider the problems as they arise.

Collecting in the morning: Pack animals can either be let loose, hobbled or picketed during the night. The latter is preferable as even a mule that has its front legs hobbled can wander for miles during the night searching for suitable grass. If the animal is picketed, unloosen the strap around the fetlock that is attached to the picket rope and lead him back to the campsite by the halter. If the animals are loose, you may have to allow a good half hour or so to catch them. Collect the gentle ones first, returning later for the recalcitrant animals. Approach each animal cautiously, talking to him and offering a palmful of oats before grabbing the halter.

Tying up and grooming: Even the gentlest pack animal will need to be tied up to a tree or post before packing. The rope should be tied with a clove hitch at about waist height. Keep the rope short, otherwise the animal will walk round and round the tree as you follow with the saddle. It also prevents him from stepping on or tripping over the rope. It is advisable to keep the animals well apart, but not too far from your pile of packed sacks or panniers.

Often, donkeys in particular, will have a roll during the night, so they require a good work-over with the brush or curry comb to remove dust or caked mud. Most animals enjoy this, but you mustn't forget that one end can bite and the other end can give a mighty kick. Personally, I spend some time stroking the animal around the head and ears, talking to him before I attempt to groom him. Ears are very good indicators of mood. If the ears are upright he is alert and apprehensive, so a few words and strokes will give him confidence; soon the ears will relax and lie back. If the ears turn and stretch right back along his neck, then there is a good chance you are in for trouble. The first time he nips, thump him in the ribs and swear at him. He will soon learn that you do not appreciate this kind of gesture.

Your main reason for grooming is to remove caked dirt, which may cause sores once the animal is loaded. Remove this dirt with a brush and clean rag and, if there is an open wound, apply an antiseptic ointment or sprinkle on boric acid powder, which will help dry it up. Finally, check each hoof quickly to see that no stone or twig has lodged in the soft pad. Lean against the animal, then warn him by tapping the leg all the way down the flank, past the knee to the fetlock before lifting the hoof; otherwise you will never succeed. If there is a stone lodged between the shoe and the hoof, prise it out with a frog pick.

Saddling and loading

Animals are used to being loaded from the left or near side. First you fold the saddle blanket, place it far forward then slide it back into position along the animal's back so that the hair lies smooth. Check that it hangs evenly on both sides, sufficient to protect the flanks from the loaded sacks. Stand behind the mule or donkey - but not too close - and check it before you proceed further. Pick up the pack saddle (two moulded pieces of wood jointed by two cross-trees) and place it on the saddle blanket so it fits in the hollows behind the withers. Tie up the breast strap and rear strap before tying the girth tight. Two people will be required to load the equipment in the soft canvas sacks onto the saddle pack, but it is essential to weigh the sacks before you place them on the cross-trees; they should be within two kg of each other. If the saddle is straight, but one sack is lower than the other, correct the length of the ear loops.

On the trail

Morning is the best time to travel, so you must hit the trail early, preferably before 7 am. At a steady two km an hour, you will be able to cover the majority of the day's journey by the time the sun is at its hottest. This will allow you to spend a good three hours' rest at midday before setting off once more for a final couple of hours ride and the search for a camp-site. Avoid late camps, so start looking by 4 pm.

During the first few days you may have some trouble getting your donkeys or mules to move close together and at a steady pace. One man should walk behind each animal if they are being led and if there are any hold ups, he can apply a few swipes of a willow switch to the hindquarters. It is a waste of time to shout at the animals or threaten them constantly, as it only makes them distrustful and skittish. The notorious stubbornness of the mule or donkey is usually the result of bad handling in the past. Sometimes it is a result of fear or fatigue, but occasionally it is sheer cussedness or an attempt to see how much he can get away with. The only occasion when I could not get a mule moving was travelling across some snow patches in the mountains of Kashmir. Eventually, after losing my temper and lashing him with a switch, I persuaded him to move slowly across the icy surface, where he disappeared into a snow hole. It took us three hours to unload him, pull him out and calm him down before we could re-pack. I learned a good lesson from my lack of awareness of the innate intelligence of the mule.

Understanding

There is no problem with unpacking, which can be done quickly and efficiently. Just remember to place all the equipment neatly together so it is not mixed up. Keep individual saddles, sacks and harnesses close enough together to cover with the waterproof cover in case of rain. Once unloaded, the donkeys can be groomed, watered and led off to the pasture area where they are to be picketed for the night.

Not long ago, I took my wife and two young daughters on a 195 km journey across the Cevennes mountains in south-east France. We followed Robert Louis Stevenson's routes, which he described in his charming little book Travels With a Donkey. We took three donkeys - two as pack animals and one for the children to take turns in riding - on a trail which had not changed much over the past hundred years. It made an ideal holiday, and we returned tanned, fitter, enchanted by the French countryside and aware that it was the character of our brave little donkeys that had made our enjoyment complete.

The speed with which the children mastered the technique of pack animal management was encouraging because it allowed us to complete our task with enough time to explore the wilder parts of the mountains and enjoy the countryside at the leisurely pace of our four-footed companions. We also took a hundred flies from one side of the Cevennes to the other, but that is another story.