Obviously one of the most important things to keep in mind while travelling is the
safety of your possessions. Do your best to minimise the chances of theft and you
will run far less risk of being left destitute in a foreign country. Try to separate your
funds, dividing them between your luggage and your person, so as to frustrate
thieves and reduce losses. And before you leave home, make arrangements with a
reliable person whom you can contact for help in an emergency.
American Express probably issue the most reliable and easily negotiable
travellers' cheques, have the most refund points in the world and
possibly hold the record for the speediest reimbursements. If you
don't have plenty of plastic to keep you going for the two to three
weeks it can take to get replacement cheques or new funds via the bank, take
these.
Play for sympathy
If you come face to face with your robbers, use all the communication skills you have
picked up on your travels. Try humour. At least try to elicit their sympathy, and
always ask them to leave items which will be of no immediate value to them but are
inconvenient for you to replace. They are usually after cash, and valuables that are
easily converted into cash. Try to get the rest back, and risk asking for enough
money for a taxi fare if you feel the situation is not too tense. Acting mad can help,
as can asking for help or advice. On being approached in Kenya, one man claimed
to be a priest and put on such a convincing act that the robbers ended by giving
him a donation.
Many thefts will be carried out (without your noticing) from your hotel room
- or by pickpockets in a crowded street. Never use a handbag
without a zip, and keep your hand over the fastener at all times. Robbers can still
slit the fabric or leather, but the odds are lengthened against their success. Never
carry anything valuable in the back pocket of your trousers or the outside pocket of
a jacket. Even the top inner pocket can easily be picked in a crowd. A money-belt
is the most secure method of carrying valuables, although even this is not
foolproof.
Never leave valuables in a hotel room, even out of sight. A good thief will know far
more tricks than you and is probably likely to check under the mattress or behind
the drawers of the dressing table before searching elsewhere. As long as the hotel
is fairly respectable and is not likely to be in cahoots with local criminals, put
valuables in the hotel safe and make sure you get a proper receipt.
While on the move, never let your luggage out of your sight. Wrap the straps of your
bag round your leg while sitting down (a good reason for a longer shoulder strap)
so you can feel it if not see it. Lock or padlock everything. This will not deter the
most hardened types, but should lessen the chance of casual pilfering. A slightly
tatty case is far less inviting than brand new leather Gucci luggage.
Violence
Violence is usually committed with a view to robbery. My advice in this unhappy
eventuality is to offer no resistance. It is virtually certain that those who inflict their
hostile attentions upon you know what they are doing and have taken into account
any possible acts of self-defence on the part of their intended victim. It may hurt
your pride, but this way you live to tell the tale - and after all, if
you are insured, the material losses will be made good by your insurance company
following the submission of a police report of the incident.
In many poorer countries, it is advisable not to wear or hold anything that is too
obviously expensive, especially at night. You should be particularly wary in Africa
and South America. The most robbery-with-violence-prone city I know is
Bogotá, Colombia, where in certain streets you can be 99 per
cent certain of being attacked. Having had most of my worldly goods lifted off me
- but not violently - in neighbouring Ecuador, I
made sure I lost nothing else by walking
Bogotá's treacherous streets with a naked
machete in my hand. This is probably a little drastic, however, and not generally
advised. You could become a target for the macho element - and
you could get arrested for carrying an offensive weapon.
A British exporter robbed three times - once at gunpoint
- in as many days in Rio spent his remaining week there avoiding
favelas (shanty towns on the outskirts of the city where
many thieves live) and making sure that he was in a taxi after nightfall (when local
drivers start to shoot the lights for fear of being mugged if they stop). Sometimes
rolled-up newspapers are thrust through quarter-lights and drivers find themselves
looking at the end of a revolver or the tip of a sheath-knife.
One of the worst cities in Africa for theft is Dar es Salaam, where locals tell of
Harlem-style stripping - a practice that is spreading across the
continent anywhere cars or parts are in short supply. Drivers return to where they
parked to find that their car's wheels, and often anything else that
can be removed down to the windscreen and doors, have been removed. An
expert gang can pick a vehicle clean in under ten minutes.
In 1977, I walked right across Peru not knowing that the region was infested with
cattle rustlers with a reputation for killing without mercy if they thought
they'd been seen. Occasionally, ignorance can be bliss. Since
then, of course, the situation in Peru has worsened, the bandits being joined by
guerrillas to make the mountains decidedly unsafe.
In urban areas, the best advice is to stay in the city centre at night. If it is imperative
to move away from the lights, go by taxi and try not to go alone. And
don't forget to press down the door locks when you get in. There
are some countries - Egypt is a prime example -
where other people just jump in if the car has to stop for any reason. They are
normally just an extra fare, but you can never be certain.
If by some mischance you do find yourself walking along a remote, unlit road at night,
at least walk in the middle of it. This will lessen the chances of being surprised by
someone concealed in the shadows. And when you have to move over for a
passing car, use its headlights as your searchlight over the next ten or 20 metres.
Protecting yourself from attack by carrying a firearm is not recommended. Even in
those countries that do permit it the necessary papers are difficult to come by, and
in countries where the law is ticklish over the subject of mercenaries, a gun of any
sort could brand you as one. One traveller was arrested in Zambia just for having a
bullet on him. In any case, the idea that a pistol under the car seat or your belt
offers protection is usually nonsense. In many countries a gun is a prize in itself to
a violent thief, who will make every effort to procure one.
What to do next
Consider what action you can take if you find yourself penniless in a foreign land.
Report thefts to the police and obtain the necessary form for insurance purposes.
You may have to insist on this and even sit down and write it out for them to sign.
Whatever it takes, you mustn't leave without it. It may be
essential to you for onward travel.
Local custom may play a part in your success. In Lima, for instance, the police would
only accept statements on paper with a special mark sold by one lady on the steps
of an obscure church found with the help of a guide. They have a way of sharing in
your misfortune - or sharing it out, at any rate.
If there is an embassy or consulate, report to them for help. In a remote spot you are
more likely to get help from the latter. You may have to interrupt a few bridge
parties, but insist on your right to be helped. In cases of proven hardship, they will
pay your fare home by (in their opinion) the most expedient route, in exchange for
your passport and the issue of travel papers. If your appearance suits, they may
also let you phone your family or bank for funds.
Have the money sent either to the embassy via the Foreign Office or to the
bank's local representative, with a letter or cable sent to you
under separate cover. This will give you proof that the money has been sent when
you turn up at the bank. I have met many starving people on the shiny steps of
banks being denied money which is sitting there in the care of a lazy or corrupt
clerk - or in the wrong file. Other countries do not always use our
order of filing and letters could be filed under
'M' or 'J' for
Mr John Smith. Have your communications addressed to your family name
followed by initials (and titles if you feel the need).
An effective, proven way of moving on to a more sophisticated place or getting home,
is to phone your contact at home and ask him to telex or fax air tickets for a flight
out. They pay at home and the airline is much more efficient than the bank. This
has the additional advantage of circumventing the Mickey Mouse currency
regulations that various countries impose. Algeria is a perfect example. The
country insists that air fares be paid in 'hard'
currency, but the money transferred into the country is automatically changed into
Algerian currency as it arrives. So you then have to apply to the central bank for
permission to change it back (at a loss) in order to buy your air ticket. A telexed
ticket can have you airborne in a couple of hours (I've done it).
Local generosity
In desperate situations, help can be obtained from people locally. These fall into two
main groups. First come expatriates, who generally live unusually well and are
often not too keen on the image that young travellers seriously trying to meet the
local scene create, but once you have pierced the inevitable armour they have put
up from experience, they are able to help.
They often have fax facilities at their disposal, business connections within or outside
the country and friends amongst the local officialdom. Their help and experience is
usually well worth having.
The come the missionaries. From experience I would suggest you try the Roman
Catholics first, as the priests often come from fairly poor backgrounds themselves
and have a certain empathy with empty pockets. Other denominations tend to live
better but put up more resistance to helping. (I came across an
American/Norwegian group in the Cameroons suffering from a crisis because the
last plane had left no maple syrup). Swallow your principles or keep quiet and
repay the hospitality when you can. They often need their faith in human nature
boosted from time to time. You will receive kindness from other temples, mosques
and chapels and can go there if you are starving. Again, do not abuse assistance
and repay it when you can.
Real desperation may reduce you to selling blood and branded clothes, in which you
have thoughtfully chosen to travel, in exchange for cheap local goods. But local
religious communities are the best bet and usually turn up an intelligent person
who can give advice.
In Third World countries, being poor and going without is no big deal
- you may be in the same boat as some 90 per cent of the
population. A camaraderie will exist, so you will probably be able to share what little
is available. It would be wrong to abuse such hospitality, but do be very careful
about hygiene, so as not to compound your problems with illness.