It doesn't matter how brilliant the adventure, how talented the team
- if a vital piece of equipment is missing, or the food or fuel has
run out, not only could the expedition fail to achieve its objective, but lives could be
put at risk. Sound logistical planning ensures that you have the right supplies to
achieve the objective and survive, in relative comfort and with enjoyment. The
principles are the same for any type or scale of expedition or journey, though the
size of the party and the nature of the objective obviously must affect the
complexity of the logistics. Since my own expertise is in mountaineering, I shall use
the planning of a mountaineering expedition as my model, but the principles behind
this could be transposed to almost any venture.
It is important to start by deciding exactly what the objective is to be
- this might sound very obvious but it is amazing how many
people become confused about precisely what they are trying to achieve and end
up with a set of conflicting objectives, which in turn make it difficult, if not
impossible, to prepare a workable plan. There could, for instance, be a conflict
between trying to introduce a group of youngsters of different nationalities to the
mountains and tackling a very difficult unclimbed peak.
Having clarified the aim, the next step is to formulate an outline plan of how to
achieve it. In the case of a mountain objective the first consideration is the style of
climbing proposed to tackle it. There are two approaches: alpine style
- packing a rucksack at the bottom of the peak and then moving
in a continuous push to the top, bivouacking or camping on the way; or siege style
- establishing a series of camps up the mountain, linked by fixed
rope on difficult ground. The latter inevitably demands a larger team, more gear
and more complex logistics. These have to be worked out in detail, from the
number of camps needed, the quality of rope to be fixed if the ground looks steep,
the cooking gear needed for each tent, and then the amount of food and fuel
necessary to feed the climbers and/or porters while they force the route and ferry
loads.
It pays to start the calculations with a summit bid of, say, two people from a top camp
of one assault tent, and then work back down the mountain. As a rule of thumb,
estimate a camp every 500 metres which represents a reasonable distance for a
load carry. Loads of around 15 kilos can be carried comfortably up to 7,000 metres,
but the higher you get the lighter the load should be. It is also important to allow
adequate rest periods, so that the team doesn't burn itself out.
Using a spreadsheet on a computer makes the calculations easier and the various
'what if?' scenarios can then be played out.
Planning in this detail at an early stage automatically supplies information about the
size of the team needed and the kind of skills required. This will help choose a
team that is not only the right size but also the right composition. This may not
appear to come under the heading of logistics but it most certainly does, for without
the right people to carry out the tasks in hand, the best laid plans and logistics fall
apart. From this point of view, in choosing a team it is essential to have a good
balance between people who are capable of taking on organisational or
management roles and those with skills to attain the objective - in
the case of a climbing expedition, talented climbers, or for a scientific one, people
with the right scientific qualifications and knowledge. It is also important that the
team is compatible, that the brilliant expert - climber, canoeist or
scientist - will work effectively for the team as a whole.
The foundations of the expedition are laid in this initial planning phase and are then
built into the organisational stage in the home country when everything is being
assembled. If vital items of food or equipment are left out, shipping arrangements
mishandled or, perhaps most important of all, there is a shortfall in the amount of
money to pay for the enterprise, it could be condemned to failure before even
setting out. In this organisational phase it is important for the leader to delegate
responsibility effectively (in the first instance ensuring that the right person has
been given the right job), give briefs of what is required and the deadlines to be
reached, and finally leave them to get on with it; but maintain a reporting-back
system so that if there are any critical problems, the leader can take any necessary
action. This role should be one of support rather than interference.
Sound budgeting and raising sufficient funds is obviously a key task in this
preparatory phase. In getting sponsorship it is also very important to be realistic
over what is promised, so that not only can the promises be fulfilled but, equally
important, the commitments to a sponsor do not prejudice achieving the end
objective or the way the expedition is conducted.
It pays to build some slack into the schedule to allow for delays and crises. In 1970
when I went to the south face of Annapurna, we sent all the expedition gear by
sea, scheduled to arrive in Bombay a fortnight before we were due to reach Nepal
by air. The ship carrying it broke down off Africa and was over a month late, giving
us a major crisis at the very beginning of the expedition. We got round it with the
help of an army expedition going to the north side of Annapurna. They allowed us
to send some gear out with their air freight and loaned us some excellent army
compo rations. This kept us going until the main gear caught up with us, but we
experienced a lot of unnecessary worry and delay. Even today, when most
expeditions use air freight for their baggage, gear can be lost, delayed in customs
or sent to the wrong place. So it pays to allow plenty of time, particularly for
clearing customs.
When packing, keep in mind at which stage of the trip the different items of food or
gear will be used, and also how they are going to be carried to the base of
operations. Put together all the items not needed until base camp. The gear and
food for use on the approach march needs to be separate and accessible. It is best
carried in lockable containers and it pays to get a set of padlocks with a uniform
key so that any team member can get access to communal equipment.
It saves a lot of time and hassle if containers are kept to a weight that can be carried
by local porters or pack animals, and are protected robustly to withstand rough
treatment and exposure to the weather. It is best to distribute similar items in
different loads, so that if a single box goes missing the total supply of a vital piece
of equipment is not lost - all the oxygen masks, for example, or all
the matches. The other vital task is to list everything and mark all the boxes clearly
with some form of identification that gives no clue of the contents to the casual
observer.
Remember that certain items cannot be sent by air. It is irresponsible and dangerous
to try to smuggle such items. Gas cylinders can be sent by cargo plane, but must
be specially packed. The air freight agent can give advice on these matters.
Once at the roadhead, life becomes much simpler. At last everyone is together and,
with luck, all the gear and food is there with you. It is just a matter of keeping the
porters happy - not always easy - and keeping
tabs on gear and loads. To make this easier, on some expeditions I have issued
each porter with a numbered plastic disk to coincide with the number of their load,
and then taken a Polaroid photo of him holding his disk and load.
An approach march can be a leisured delight or a nightmare, depending on the
behaviour of the porters. Very often, problems with the porters are outside your
control, since so much depends on the local situation, the attitude of the liaison
officer and the conduct of the naik or overseer, who might
have extracted a large commission from the porters in return for employment. It is
very difficult to advise on any specific reaction other than to stay cool, to listen
carefully and to bargain effectively.
And so to base camp. The objective - in my case, a mountain
- is in sight and some might think that this is where the real
challenge begins. However, the eventual success or failure will have been strongly
influenced by everything that has been done in the preparatory phase and the
approach. If the expedition has been planned in detail, all the essential gear that
was packed in containers to go straight to base camp is now ready for use.
Provided team members are fit and relaxed and happy, they certainly have a much
better chance of success, or at least of having a good try at achieving the objective
and enjoying themselves at the same time.
In the case of a mountain, particularly one that is unclimbed, the first priority, after
making base camp comfortable, is to make a thorough recce, to check out if the
actual terrain corresponds with what pictures and maps you have managed to get
hold of, and to assess whether the plan of campaign needs changing or adjusting.
A plan should always be flexible. It is possible to change and adapt it to
circumstances, but it must be a well thought out plan in the first place. On the
south-west face of Everest in 1975, we completed a detailed plan using a
computer model in Britain, but made frequent changes during the actual
expedition. However, without the original plan as a solid foundation, we could
never have climbed the south-west face as quickly and smoothly as we did.
It is all too easy, when the weather is good, to believe it will last forever. Each fine
day needs to be regarded as the last one you will get on the expedition. Equally,
when the weather is bad, it is also easy to slip into lethargy. It is just as important
to be poised to take advantage of a clearance.
We all want to achieve success, to reach our objective, but I believe it is important to
remember that the journey is as important as the final objective. The way that
journey is carried out not only determines the eventual outcome but, equally
important, how you are going to feel about it in the future. If the logistics are right, if
everyone works well together as a team, with each individual being prepared to
sacrifice personal ambition for the good of the group as a whole, being aware of
the needs of others and helping where necessary, then the venture has achieved
complete success. Sound planning from the very beginning provides the
foundations of that success.