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Ted Simon has circled the globe on a Triumph 500cc motorcycle, a journey described in 'Jupiter's Travels'.

The motorbiker
by Ted Simon


CONTENTS

Sit up and take notice
One's company
Don't...



It seems pointless to argue the merits of motorcycles as against other kinds of vehicles. Everyone knows more or less what the motorbike can do, and attitudes to it generally are quite sharply defined. Most are against it - and so much the better for those of us who recognise its advantages. Who wants to be part of a herd? Let me just say that I am writing here for people who are thinking of travelling through the broad open spaces of Africa and Latin America, or across the great Asian landmass.

Here then are some points in favour of motorcycles for the few who care to consider them. In my view, the motorbike is the most versatile vehicle there is for moving through strange countries at a reasonable pace, for experiencing changing conditions and meeting people in remote places. It can cover immense distances and will take you where cars can hardly go. It is easily and cheaply freighted across lakes and oceans, and it can usually be trucked out of trouble without too much difficulty, while a car might anchor you to the spot for weeks.

Sit up and take notice

In return, the bike demands the highest levels of awareness from its rider. You need not be an expert, but you must be enthusiastic and keep all your wits about you. It is an unforgiving vehicle that does not suffer fools at all. As well as the more obvious hazards of potholes, maniacal truck drivers and stray animals, there are the less tangible perils such as dehydration, hypothermia and plain mental fatigue to recognise and avoid.

The bike, then, poses a real challenge to its rider - and accepting it may seem to be almost masochistic, but my argument is that by choosing to travel in a way that demands top physical and mental performance you equip yourself to benefit a thousand times more from what comes your way, enabling you quite soon to brush aside the discomforts that plague lazier travellers.

You absolutely must sit up and take notice to survive at all. The weather and temperature are critical factors; the moods and customs of the people affect you vitally; you are vulnerable and sensitive to everything around you; and you learn fast. You build up resistances faster, too, your instincts are sharper and truer, and you adjust more readily to changes in the climate, both physical and social. Here endeth the eulogy upon the bike.

One's company

I travelled alone almost all the way around the world, but most people prefer to travel in company. As a machine, the motorcycle is obviously at its best used by one person, and it is my opinion that you learn faster and get the maximum feedback on your own, but I know that for many such loneliness would be unthinkable. Even so, you need to be very clear about your reasons for choosing to travel in company. If it is only for security, my advice is to forget it. Groups of nervous travellers chattering together in some outlandish tongue spread waves of paranoia much faster than a single weary rider struggling to make contact in the local language. A motorcycle will attract attention in most places. The problem is to turn that interest to good account. In some countries (Brazil, for example) a motorcycle is a symbol of playboy wealth, and an invitation to thieves. In parts of Africa and the Andes, it is still an unfamiliar and disturbing object. Whether the attention it attracts works for the rider or against him depends on his own awareness of others and the positive energy he can generate towards his environment.

It is very important in poor countries not to flaunt wealth and superiority. All machinery has this effect anyway, but it can be much reduced by a suitable layer of dirt and a muted exhaust system. I avoided having too much glittering chrome and electric paintwork, and I regarded most modern leathers and motorcycle gear as a real handicap. I wore an open face helmet for four years, and when I stopped among people, I always took it off to make sure they saw me as a real person.

Don't...

Finally a few things I learned not to do. Don't ride without arms, knees and eyes covered, and watch out for bee swarms, unless you use a screen, which I did not. Don't carry a gun or any offensive weapon unless you want to invite violence. Do not allow yourself to be hustled into starting off anywhere until you're ready; something is bound to go wrong or get lost. Do not let helpful people entice you into following their cars at ridiculous speeds over dirt roads and potholes. They have no idea what bikes can do. Always set your own pace and get used to the pleasures of easy riding. Resist the habit of thinking that you must get to the next big city before nightfall. You miss everything that's good along the way and, in any case, the cities are the least interesting places. Don't expect things to go to plan, and don't worry when they don't. Perhaps the hardest truth to appreciate when starting a long journey is that the mishaps and unexpected problems always lead to the best discoveries and the most memorable experiences. And if things insist on going too smoothly, you can always try running out of petrol on purpose.

 
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