It seems pointless to argue the merits of motorcycles as against other
kinds of vehicles. Everyone knows more or less what the motorbike can do, and
attitudes to it generally are quite sharply defined. Most are against it
- and so much the better for those of us who recognise its
advantages. Who wants to be part of a herd? Let me just say that I am writing here
for people who are thinking of travelling through the broad open spaces of Africa
and Latin America, or across the great Asian landmass.
Here then are some points in favour of motorcycles for the few who care to consider
them. In my view, the motorbike is the most versatile vehicle there is for moving
through strange countries at a reasonable pace, for experiencing changing
conditions and meeting people in remote places. It can cover immense distances
and will take you where cars can hardly go. It is easily and cheaply freighted
across lakes and oceans, and it can usually be trucked out of trouble without too
much difficulty, while a car might anchor you to the spot for weeks.
Sit up and take notice
In return, the bike demands the highest levels of awareness from its rider. You need
not be an expert, but you must be enthusiastic and keep all your wits about you. It
is an unforgiving vehicle that does not suffer fools at all. As well as the more
obvious hazards of potholes, maniacal truck drivers and stray animals, there are
the less tangible perils such as dehydration, hypothermia and plain mental fatigue
to recognise and avoid.
The bike, then, poses a real challenge to its rider - and accepting it
may seem to be almost masochistic, but my argument is that by choosing to travel
in a way that demands top physical and mental performance you equip yourself to
benefit a thousand times more from what comes your way, enabling you quite soon
to brush aside the discomforts that plague lazier travellers.
You absolutely must sit up and take notice to survive at all. The weather and
temperature are critical factors; the moods and customs of the people affect you
vitally; you are vulnerable and sensitive to everything around you; and you learn
fast. You build up resistances faster, too, your instincts are sharper and truer, and
you adjust more readily to changes in the climate, both physical and social. Here
endeth the eulogy upon the bike.
One's company
I travelled alone almost all the way around the world, but most people prefer to travel
in company. As a machine, the motorcycle is obviously at its best used by one
person, and it is my opinion that you learn faster and get the maximum feedback
on your own, but I know that for many such loneliness would be unthinkable. Even
so, you need to be very clear about your reasons for choosing to travel in
company. If it is only for security, my advice is to forget it. Groups of nervous
travellers chattering together in some outlandish tongue spread waves of paranoia
much faster than a single weary rider struggling to make contact in the local
language. A motorcycle will attract attention in most places. The problem is to turn
that interest to good account. In some countries (Brazil, for example) a motorcycle
is a symbol of playboy wealth, and an invitation to thieves. In parts of Africa and
the Andes, it is still an unfamiliar and disturbing object. Whether the attention it
attracts works for the rider or against him depends on his own awareness of others
and the positive energy he can generate towards his environment.
It is very important in poor countries not to flaunt wealth and superiority. All machinery
has this effect anyway, but it can be much reduced by a suitable layer of dirt and a
muted exhaust system. I avoided having too much glittering chrome and electric
paintwork, and I regarded most modern leathers and motorcycle gear as a real
handicap. I wore an open face helmet for four years, and when I stopped among
people, I always took it off to make sure they saw me as a real person.
Don't...
Finally a few things I learned not to do. Don't ride without arms,
knees and eyes covered, and watch out for bee swarms, unless you use a screen,
which I did not. Don't carry a gun or any offensive weapon unless
you want to invite violence. Do not allow yourself to be hustled into starting off
anywhere until you're ready; something is bound to go wrong or
get lost. Do not let helpful people entice you into following their cars at ridiculous
speeds over dirt roads and potholes. They have no idea what bikes can do. Always
set your own pace and get used to the pleasures of easy riding. Resist the habit of
thinking that you must get to the next big city before nightfall. You miss everything
that's good along the way and, in any case, the cities are the
least interesting places. Don't expect things to go to plan, and
don't worry when they don't. Perhaps the
hardest truth to appreciate when starting a long journey is that the mishaps and
unexpected problems always lead to the best discoveries and the most memorable
experiences. And if things insist on going too smoothly, you can always try running
out of petrol on purpose.