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Amy Sohanpaul is the Assistant Editor of 'The Traveller's Handbook'.

The luxury traveller
by Amy Sohanpaul


CONTENTS

Luxury and travel
The sky's the limit
I want to be alone
Dream on



The word luxury has been used so lavishly - and so slavishly - by press officers and chocolate makers that we're in danger of forgetting what it really means. Not that the dictionary definition is perfect: 'something desirable for comfort or enjoyment, but not indispensable.' Not indispensable? It's essential for one's sanity. Happily, luxury doesn't always have a hefty price-tag. Stretching out in a sunny spot, finding time to stand and stare, having the papers delivered to the doorstep, a glass of wine in the bath: everyone has their own personalised version.

Luxury and travel

However, if you have a lot of time and a lot of money, or even just the latter, travel is one of those areas where you can find absolutes of luxury. A stratospheric price tag equals a whole exclusive world, far from the madding crowd. And if you're travelling first class, it starts at the airport - or if you're flying with Virgin it starts on your doorstep as they send a chauffeur to pick you up. At the airport you're whisked through the speediest check-in to a private lounge and ushered into first class and, on some planes, tucked into bed. British Airways beds come with velvet head cushions and real cashmere blankets. If you must eat or drink, simply summon staff just desperate to serve you haute cuisine at 20,000 feet. Is the world your oyster or is the oyster your world?

The sky's the limit

What could be better than flying by first class? Travelling by private jet? TCS Expeditions will sort it out for you. Passengers travel aboard specially modified Boeing 757s. These give you access to the smaller airports in remoter places: you can hop between one exotic destination and the next as easily as a grasshopper leaps between blades of grass. The staff-to-passenger ratio is high - including chefs and professional expedition leaders and academic guides. A few sample itineraries include Around Africa by Private Jet- Zanzibar, Namibia and Marrakech are just a few of the stops on this trip. Or spend 21 days rediscovering History's Lost Cities from Angkor to Uzbekistan. If that isn't good enough, they can custom-make your own private jet expeditions (www.tcs- expeditions.com). Many upmarket tour operators will organise exclusive private arrangements for you - fancy flying to the Caribbean at short notice and need a private jet, limousine transfers and a fully crewed and catered sailing ship? WEXAS and Abercrombie & Kent are just two companies who will organise it all while you pack your bikini. If you only want a jet and aren't going too far, then try Euro Executive Jet, who fly to over 1,500 European destinations (email enquiries@exec-jet.co.uk).

Of course, you don't have to fly. Cruising is even more laid back than a reclining seat in first class, and increasingly popular. But don't let that put you off. The independent Cruise Advisory Service (35 Blue Boar Row, Salisbury SP1 1DA, tel 01722 335505) should be your first port of call to sift the standard from the sublime. Their standards are so high that they have no hesitation in describing the newest, biggest ship on PO's books - the superliner Aurora- as 'standard bucket-and-spades four star', notwithstanding the ship's penthouse suites, butler service and 30-foot cascading waterfall. Even the qeii only qualifies for four stars, despite staff who endeavour to satisfy your every whim, fantastic suites with private balconies, and ever-changing views. You might choose to ignore the ratings, since this grande dame remains a favourite for the classic transatlantic crossing, and is justifiably loved for its World Cruise - three months of non-stop glamour and luxury.

In case you're wondering, the lines that do qualify as five star include Silversea Cruises, Crystal, Seabourn (part of Cunard), Radisson and Peter Dielmann. If you're still not convinced, then hire yourself a superyacht instead - complete with helicopter landing pads, mahogany bedrooms, jacuzzis on deck and cinemas inside (www.eliteyacht.com).

If you get sea-sick even in superliners, there's always the humble train. Such as the splendid Rovos Rail Pride of Africa trains - two restored steam trains that wind their way from Cape Town to Dar Es Salaam, or shorter routes, taking in overnight stays at selected game reserves. Still in South Africa, the Blue Train is another delight, and a spectacular way to travel between Pretoria and Cape Town. You can relax in en-suite compartments with crisp white bedding, telephones and televisions. Some even boast CD players, for playing blue savannah songs as Africa rolls past. After this hotel on wheels, try the Palace on Wheels- the only way to travel through Rajasthan. Passengers view forts and resplendent royal residences during stops and then retire to the air-conditioned elegance of their 'bed-chambers' or a pink gin in the bar as the train moves onto the next glorious location.

Or try the legendary Orient-Express; well, you don't have to try very hard. The food is splendid, the service even more so. This quality is a standard on all Orient- Express trains, which include the Great South Pacific Express between Cairns and Sydney, and the Eastern & Oriental Express between Bangkok and Singapore. On the Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express the brass gleams, the wood shines, the original carriages (rescued from dereliction and restored) are inlaid with marquetry. The view from the windows isn't too bad either, when you wake up in the Swiss Alps. And at the end of it all, there's Venice. Glorious even if staying in a sleeping bag, sublime when staying at the Hotel Cipriani, with its elegance, sumptuous simplicity and views of the lagoon. The Gritti Palace runs it a close second for style and comfort, and houses Harry's Bar, the best place in the world to drink a bellini.

That's Venice, which only leaves the rest of the globe to choose from. There simply isn't room to list all the most luxurious rooms and hotels within this chapter. Suffice to say that any member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, of the reliable Relais & Chateaux group or of The Leading Hotels of the World is probably going to meet the mark. There are some hotel groups which you just know will provide the best of the best - Four Seasons' hotels, from New York to the Maldives, hit the perfect spot every time; while the Aman hotels aren't so much hotels as experiences - of sheer indulgence.

Take their Amanwana resort in Indonesia, for example. It's as rough and ready as an Aman hideaway gets - tents on a jungle-covered island. It's a long hop, skip and jump to this remote retreat and the final leg is on a motorcruiser, when the fun begins as the taste of champagne mingles with the delicious spray of the ocean. Winding paths of sand lead to each tent - which seems as appropriate as calling Windsor Castle a wee wigwam. They come complete with living room, writing desks and state of the art bathrooms with his and hers sinks. Staff outnumber guests by at least three to one.

People do get addicted to the Aman group. In the Amanwana bar I met a couple on honeymoon who had decided to spend it visiting various Aman resorts. They had planned on a year, which seemed fair. Or vastly unfair!

I want to be alone

Of course, even the most exclusive hotels can seem a little crowded at times, which is when only a villa will do. It's possible to have anything from a château to a reworked cowshed at your disposal, with or without maid service. Some villas are part of hotels so you get full-on service and privacy. For instance, the two bedroom Royal Villa, is part of the beautiful Rajvilas resort in Jaipur, comes complete with grand dining-room, private garden and its own pool. Traditional, private villas are just as luscious. Villas of the World offer gems such as Casa Careyes in Mexico - five air- conditioned bedrooms, four bathrooms, a dramatic, thatched, open-air living area with a freeform swimming pool, plus a full-time staff of eight, including a chauffeur. Smaller companies come up with the goods too, and the better ones have personal knowledge of all the properties on their books. Tuscany Now is particularly good for anything from a one-bedroom cottage to a thousand-year-old castle in Italy.

The most scenic, most idyllic privacy belongs to island retreats. Mnemba Island off the coast of Zanzibar is a shoeless haven, serenity lapped by gentle waves. Some of the Maldive resorts are worth a retreat before the islands disappear altogether, due to rising water levels. The Four Seasons at Kuda Huraa (with wonderful water- villas built on stilts over the lagoon) and Soneva Fushi (notable for its splendid spa) are among the best resorts on these enchanted islands. Fiji is paradise for Robinson Crusoe fans: with over 330 islands to choose from, one or two are going make the perfection grade. Vatulele Island Resort does, with just 17 villas fronting a fantasy white beach.

The ultimate has to be Turtle Island, with 14 two-room Fijian-style bures (thatched huts) and 14 private beaches. The bliss of a beach each is not to be taken lightly - a minimum of 6 nights is required. A maximum stay limit might be more appropriate.

Dream on

The most wonderful thing about luxury travel is that the possibilities are endless. The best of the best is out there and there are numerous companies who will be delighted to put it together for you, such as WEXAS. Fancy a personalised safari with your own guides, virtually your own game reserve, as well as exquisite three course dinners in the bush? A private pool to float in between game watching? No problem, speak to Abercrombie and Kent or any number of safari specialists. A personalised shopping tour in India? Western and Oriental, or Cox and Kings, are India experts. Not sure when to go or where to go, but money no object? See any of the above, or the small but knowledgeable Nomadic Thoughts, whose offices I visited on a bleak rainy day in London. Large gin and tonics were poured as map after map of the world was unfurled and route after route was planned and plotted.

Deciding where you're going to go, whether you choose an old jalopy or a private jet is the most fun. But perhaps the simple privilege of being able to travel is the greatest luxury of them all.

 
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