The word luxury has been used so lavishly - and so slavishly
- by press
officers and chocolate makers that we're in danger of forgetting
what it really means. Not that the dictionary definition is perfect:
'something desirable for comfort or enjoyment, but not
indispensable.' Not indispensable? It's essential
for one's sanity. Happily, luxury doesn't always
have a hefty price-tag. Stretching out in a sunny spot, finding time to stand and
stare, having the papers delivered to the doorstep, a glass of wine in the bath:
everyone has their own personalised version.
Luxury and travel
However, if you have a lot of time and a lot of money, or even just the latter, travel is
one of those areas where you can find absolutes of luxury. A stratospheric price
tag equals a whole exclusive world, far from the madding crowd. And if
you're travelling first class, it starts at the airport
- or if you're flying with Virgin it starts on your
doorstep as they send a chauffeur to pick you up. At the airport
you're whisked through the speediest check-in to a private
lounge and ushered into first class and, on some planes, tucked into bed. British
Airways beds come with velvet head cushions and real cashmere blankets. If you
must eat or drink, simply summon staff just desperate to serve you
haute cuisine at 20,000 feet. Is the world your oyster or is
the oyster your world?
The sky's the limit
What could be better than flying by first class? Travelling by private jet? TCS
Expeditions will sort it out for you. Passengers travel aboard specially modified
Boeing 757s. These give you access to the smaller airports in remoter places: you
can hop between one exotic destination and the next as easily as a grasshopper
leaps between blades of grass. The staff-to-passenger ratio is high
- including chefs and professional expedition leaders and
academic guides. A few sample itineraries include Around Africa by
Private Jet- Zanzibar, Namibia and Marrakech are
just a few of the stops on this trip. Or spend 21 days rediscovering
History's Lost Cities from Angkor to
Uzbekistan. If that isn't good enough, they can custom-make
your own private jet expeditions (www.tcs-
expeditions.com). Many upmarket tour operators will organise
exclusive private arrangements for you - fancy flying to the
Caribbean at short notice and need a private jet, limousine transfers and a fully
crewed and catered sailing ship? WEXAS and Abercrombie
& Kent are just two companies who will organise it all
while you pack your bikini. If you only want a jet and aren't going
too far, then try Euro Executive Jet, who fly to over 1,500 European destinations
(email enquiries@exec-jet.co.uk).
Of course, you don't have to fly. Cruising is even more laid back
than a reclining seat in first class, and increasingly popular. But
don't let that put you off. The independent Cruise Advisory
Service (35 Blue Boar Row, Salisbury SP1 1DA, tel
01722 335505) should be your first port of call to sift the
standard from the sublime. Their standards are so high that they have no
hesitation in describing the newest, biggest ship on
PO's books
- the superliner Aurora-
as 'standard bucket-and-spades four star',
notwithstanding the ship's penthouse suites, butler service and
30-foot cascading waterfall. Even the qeii only qualifies
for four stars, despite staff who endeavour to satisfy your every whim, fantastic
suites with private balconies, and ever-changing views. You might choose to
ignore the ratings, since this grande dame remains a
favourite for the classic transatlantic crossing, and is justifiably loved for its World
Cruise - three months of non-stop glamour and luxury.
In case you're wondering, the lines that do qualify as five star
include Silversea Cruises, Crystal, Seabourn (part of Cunard), Radisson and Peter
Dielmann. If you're still not convinced, then hire yourself a
superyacht instead - complete with helicopter landing pads,
mahogany bedrooms, jacuzzis on deck and cinemas inside
(www.eliteyacht.com).
If you get sea-sick even in superliners, there's always the humble
train. Such as the splendid Rovos Rail Pride of Africa
trains - two restored steam trains that wind their way from Cape
Town to Dar Es Salaam, or shorter routes, taking in overnight stays at selected
game reserves. Still in South Africa, the Blue Train is
another delight, and a spectacular way to travel between Pretoria and Cape Town.
You can relax in en-suite compartments with crisp white
bedding, telephones and televisions. Some even boast CD
players, for playing blue savannah songs as Africa rolls past. After this hotel on
wheels, try the Palace on Wheels- the
only way to travel through Rajasthan. Passengers view forts and resplendent royal
residences during stops and then retire to the air-conditioned elegance of their
'bed-chambers' or a pink gin in the bar as the
train moves onto the next glorious location.
Or try the legendary Orient-Express; well, you
don't have to try very hard. The food is splendid, the service
even more so. This quality is a standard on all Orient-
Express trains, which include the Great South Pacific
Express between Cairns and Sydney, and the Eastern
& Oriental Express between Bangkok and
Singapore. On the Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express the
brass gleams, the wood shines, the original carriages (rescued from dereliction and
restored) are inlaid with marquetry. The view from the windows
isn't too bad either, when you wake up in the Swiss Alps. And at
the end of it all, there's Venice. Glorious even if staying in a
sleeping bag, sublime when staying at the Hotel Cipriani, with its elegance,
sumptuous simplicity and views of the lagoon. The Gritti Palace runs it a close
second for style and comfort, and houses Harry's Bar, the best
place in the world to drink a bellini.
That's Venice, which only leaves the rest of the globe to choose
from. There simply isn't room to list all the most luxurious rooms
and hotels within this chapter. Suffice to say that any member of Small Luxury
Hotels of the World, of the reliable Relais & Chateaux
group or of The Leading Hotels of the World is probably going to meet the mark.
There are some hotel groups which you just know will provide the best of the best
- Four Seasons' hotels, from New York to the
Maldives, hit the perfect spot every time; while the Aman hotels
aren't so much hotels as experiences - of sheer
indulgence.
Take their Amanwana resort in Indonesia, for example. It's as rough
and ready as an Aman hideaway gets - tents on a jungle-covered
island. It's a long hop, skip and jump to this remote retreat and
the final leg is on a motorcruiser, when the fun begins as the taste of champagne
mingles with the delicious spray of the ocean. Winding paths of sand lead to each
tent - which seems as appropriate as calling Windsor Castle a
wee wigwam. They come complete with living room, writing desks and state of the
art bathrooms with his and hers sinks. Staff outnumber guests by at least three to
one.
People do get addicted to the Aman group. In the Amanwana bar I met a couple on
honeymoon who had decided to spend it visiting various Aman resorts. They had
planned on a year, which seemed fair. Or vastly unfair!
I want to be alone
Of course, even the most exclusive hotels can seem a little crowded at times, which
is when only a villa will do. It's possible to have anything from a
château to a reworked cowshed at your disposal,
with or without maid service. Some villas are part of hotels so you get full-on
service and privacy. For instance, the two bedroom Royal Villa, is part of the
beautiful Rajvilas resort in Jaipur, comes complete with grand dining-room, private
garden and its own pool. Traditional, private villas are just as luscious. Villas of the
World offer gems such as Casa Careyes in Mexico - five air-
conditioned bedrooms, four bathrooms, a dramatic, thatched, open-air living area
with a freeform swimming pool, plus a full-time staff of eight, including a chauffeur.
Smaller companies come up with the goods too, and the better ones have personal
knowledge of all the properties on their books. Tuscany Now is particularly good
for anything from a one-bedroom cottage to a thousand-year-old castle in Italy.
The most scenic, most idyllic privacy belongs to island retreats. Mnemba Island off
the coast of Zanzibar is a shoeless haven, serenity lapped by gentle waves. Some
of the Maldive resorts are worth a retreat before the islands disappear altogether,
due to rising water levels. The Four Seasons at Kuda Huraa (with wonderful water-
villas built on stilts over the lagoon) and Soneva Fushi (notable for its splendid spa)
are among the best resorts on these enchanted islands. Fiji is paradise for
Robinson Crusoe fans: with over 330 islands to choose
from, one or two are going make the perfection grade. Vatulele Island Resort does,
with just 17 villas fronting a fantasy white beach.
The ultimate has to be Turtle Island, with 14 two-room Fijian-style
bures (thatched huts) and 14 private beaches. The bliss
of a beach each is not to be taken lightly - a minimum of 6 nights
is required. A maximum stay limit might be more appropriate.
Dream on
The most wonderful thing about luxury travel is that the possibilities are endless. The
best of the best is out there and there are numerous companies who will be
delighted to put it together for you, such as WEXAS. Fancy a
personalised safari with your own guides, virtually your own game reserve, as well
as exquisite three course dinners in the bush? A private pool to float in between
game watching? No problem, speak to Abercrombie and Kent or any number of
safari specialists. A personalised shopping tour in India? Western and Oriental, or
Cox and Kings, are India experts. Not sure when to go or where to go, but money
no object? See any of the above, or the small but knowledgeable Nomadic
Thoughts, whose offices I visited on a bleak rainy day in London. Large gin and
tonics were poured as map after map of the world was unfurled and route after
route was planned and plotted.
Deciding where you're going to go, whether you choose an old
jalopy or a private jet is the most fun. But perhaps the simple privilege of being
able to travel is the greatest luxury of them all.