"Of course, it was better in 1990." It's
the one thing that links the clubbing
veteran and the seasoned traveller - an unshakeable conviction
that everything was better at a vaguely defined point in the past. So if you are
going around the world with the express purpose of visiting the legendary locations
you've heard about, uncovering new and exciting music in its
home country and meeting like-minded enthusiasts, it's
something you're going to have to get used to.
It is, of course, total rubbish. Just as every traveller brings a fresh set of eyes to the
world, so does the world of sweating, dancing and chatting constantly renew itself.
Unfortunately, this perennial moan is the only thing that unites the concept of
'the clubbing traveller'. How, for example, do
you reconcile these experiences...?
Bouncing in the perennially popular Banana Club in Cusco, Peru, to the background
of head-drilling hardcore techno randomly mixed with local salsa. The floor has at
least a metre of give in the centre, so even retiring wall-flowers standing meekly by
the edge jig helplessly, catapulted into the air by the laws of physics.
Negotiating the sticky-floored Cocktails and Dreams in Australia's
Surfer's Paradise, where every Tuesday punters claim one hour
of free beer, and where ten bottles in that hour is not only common practice, but
positively expected.
Laying on a straw mat on Hat Rin's white sand beach in Thailand,
taking delivery of a cold melon juice and watching a flawless purple-bruise sunrise,
while in the background a squealing voice declares:
"harrrrrcore techno y'know, foo moon
partaaaay" to the accompaniment of head-splitting firecrackers.
Negotiating the velvet rope outside New York's The Tunnel by
peering over a bouncer's shoulder at a name on the guest list,
only to find yourself at a party celebrating 'sadomasochistic art
through the ages'.
No jaunt around the world is going to be the same. This guide can only give the
merest hint of what is going on in every corner of the globe. The only advice you
need, which is what every budding traveller wants to hear, is: get out there and
define your own clubbing map of the world. But we all need a helping hand, so
let's start with some familiar names...
The big three: Ibiza, Goa, Ko Phan Gan
Whatever your opinion of patchouli oil or The Grateful Dead, hippies do deserve our
thanks for establishing three of Earth's grandest clubbing
institutions.
Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, intrepid longhairs on their meandering trail round
the world gradually tired of all that movement and stuck a stick in the ground. Ibiza
and Goa in the 1960s, and Thailand's Ko Phan Gan in the early
1990s, became semi-permanent tie-died enclaves. All three offered the winning
double of cheap accommodation and the opportunity to frolic naked, which may
also explain their lasting appeal. These days, of course, all three are well-stomped
parts of any young and excitable traveller's itinerary, but
don't let that put you off.
Ibiza needs no introduction - the white isle can now claim to be the
clubbing capital of the world without causing too many raised pierced eyebrows. If
you've even a passing interest in the repetitive beat,
you'll be familiar with the names if the main clubs
- Ku and Pacha in particular are absolutely stunning, and that
goes for the decor, the music and the bar staff.
Stay out of San Antonio if you don't like beer and football, make
sure you see at least one sunset from Café Del Mar and
don't fall asleep on the beach. The main season runs from June
to September -www.ibiza-
info.com/night contains unbiased updates and sensible advice if
you intend a visit.
Goa, the former Portuguese colony on the south-west coast of India, is the original
hippy port that is now home to backpackers looking to see if all
they've heard is true. By and large, it is -
Calangute is the 'party beach', but if
you're planning a long stay it can become oppressive after a
while. A good plan is to stay in Baga, a bit further north - it has all
the beauty of Calangute, but more opportunities to escape the crowds.
Don't expect groundbreaking music - a
psychedelic trance regime is strictly enforced - but the white
beaches, sunsets and transcendental conversations are all beautiful. Man.
Hat Rin beach on Ko Phan Gan is home to the infamous 'full moon
parties', held, well, every full moon. Until fairly recently you could
only get here by bribing a willing local fisherman to take you from Ko Samui, but
you can now catch a ferry straight from Surat Thani on Thailand's
east coast. Hat Rin is surprisingly small, and it's worth exploring
the island, which comes close to the conventional descriptions of paradise. Back
on the main beach, time seems to obey different rules - many
people have lost whole weeks falling into the papaya shake, seafood and sun
lifestyle. It's also not to everybody's taste
- the scathing parody in Alex Garland's
The Beach is transparently based on Ko Phan Gan,
complete with travelling one-upmanship and some seriously damaged psyches.
Warning: If you come across someone at any of these three destinations who has
been there since "the very beginning" (a
sliding date that will tend to vary with each storyteller), don't try
and get much sense out of them. You won't.
Where else can I go?
One of the world's more timeless clubbing events is The Berlin Love
Parade - the one time that the city completely throws off its
somewhat drab reputation and takes to the streets in style. The two days of
homespun techno, sequins and Teutonic mayhem make you wonder where on
earth these people get to for the rest of the year. It tends to take place around
May, but not much forward planning is needed - accommodation
is cheap and plentiful.
Forward planning, however, is vital if you're going to the Rio
Carnival. This needs no introduction, running from Sunday to 'Fat
Tuesday', 40 days before Lent (usually February or March). You
won't be alone in the crowds of tourists, but it's
guaranteed to leave a smile tattooed to your mouth for the duration of the full four-
day celebration. The usual caution applies when travelling in Rio -
don't carry large amounts of money, keep to the main streets and
don't stray too far from the town centre.
The Sydney Mardi Gras also takes place around March; it's a time
when the city's gay and lesbian population celebrate as only
Australians can. Last year's highlights included a float made
entirely from beer cans, a mobile lesbian wedding centre and a
'tallest tranny' competition. End the evening in
the clubs of Kings Cross and Pitt Street and you'll have enough
tales to bore your friends for weeks. Not one for colonials with a stiff upper lip.
Ayia Napa in Cyprus is fast becoming a world convention for garage and
R'n'B every summer, with top
DJs promising residencies. The town itself shares
Ibiza's beered-up temporary clientele, but the atmosphere rarely
goes beyond frisky. Seeing Mickey Finn and the Ganja Kru gleefully playing their
raucous drum'n'bass to a small crowd of
bewildered Cypriots is just one lasting memory - although now
there are likely to be Ibiza-style crowds to match the music.
If you're heading to Japan, Tokyo's Shibuyaku
district is unparalleled for ice-cool posing, superb homegrown techno and hip-hop
and a strict 'no-dancing' policy
- look cool at all costs. The clothes and styling are obsessively
dapper, and you're also likely to pick up some superb outfits to
mail home. Just don't expect them to be fashionable for a few
years.
But look at the itinerary of any big DJ for the full story of
clubbing around the world. Carl Cox, for example, visited Cologne, Paris, Albufeira,
New York, Belfast, Finland, Denmark and Australia in the space of two months in
early 2000. Keep your eyes open, and
you'll find an unexpected bonus wherever you turn.
And always remember a golden rule - follow the heavens. If
you're in a beautiful part of the world and
there's a full moon or eclipse, someone somewhere will be
hosting a party worth being at.
Dos
Like the best restaurants and the best guesthouses, the best clubs are not always
listed in handy guides like these. You'll need to get out there and
talk to people (locals, fellow thrill-seekers, the melon-seller, anyone). A truly unique
clubbing experience is one of the only joys left in travelling that
can't be exhaustively researched and printed in a book
- in a year it will be gone.
Visit local record shops, whether it's DownTown Records on New
York's West 25th St - a vinyl
junkie's dream - or a tin shack booming out
merengue in Cancun. Buy a tape in each one and
you'll have an amazing set of memories, not to mention reams of
unlistenable-to tat that 'sounded good at the
time'. Given the right surroundings, even Chinese opera can gain
a certain charm. And as at home, search out any magazines, flyers and fanzines
- the quickest route to where you want to be.
The internet is now essential to the traveller - it's
more up to date than the advice you picked up two months down the road, and
chat rooms are often full of like-minded people only too willing to trade stories.
www.clubplanet.com has reliable guides to the
major cities around the world, and
www.wwideweb.com/chatpro.htm gives you
access to the busiest chat rooms, where you'll more than likely
find like-minded nightlife fans.
One tip that may surprise you: carry a reasonably smart, crease-free outfit in your
backpack, including shoes that aren't trainers. Heavy and
annoying, yes, but if you're intending to go out anywhere grander
than the local pub in a major Western city, they won't let you in
wearing Birkenstocks and a 'Free Tibet' T-shirt.
Australia, France and the US are particularly strict.
It's less of a problem in Goa.
ID with a photo is also a must for city nightclubs - even a
UK driving licence often isn't enough if it
doesn't have a picture. If you're younger than
21 you may have the occasional problem, but an international student card with a
slightly 'optimistic' birth-date will get you past
most doormen.
Don'ts
Be careful that you're not the kind of 'clubbing
traveller' who is also the 'selfish
hedonist'. Don't throw your rubbish everywhere
- beautiful places became popular for a reason. Respect local
customs at all times - there may be a big discrepancy between
acceptable behaviour at home and the country you're in. You
may offend religious sensibilities and local custom by assuming the world loves to
dance to loud drum'n'bass in Lycra and bikinis.
Anyone who has spent time in Thailand or India, among a tolerant and religious
people, will have seen their occasional dismay at behaviour they cannot condone.
Be aware of your surroundings.
And, most importantly, remember that nightclubs picked up a seedy reputation for a
reason. Tales of clubs in Patpong in Bangkok being locked until everyone pays to
get out are not urban myths. Use your head - which brings us
onto the next subject.
Drugs
Whether you like them or not, and it's impossible to deny that many
people do, drugs are part of many clubbing cultures. But before you join in,
consider the following facts carefully.
You're often nowhere near the kind of medical help you may need,
you're not in a controlled environment, and
you're more likely to be experimenting with something you
haven't tried before. Most importantly, drug laws are usually
harsh and, contrary to travelling rumour, often enforced.
One full moon party I attended in Ko Phan Gan in 1992 was thrown into perspective
after two young German men died trying to swim home after some magic
mushroom omelettes. And there's no fun to be had in foreign
prisons, deportation, confiscated passports or massive fines. For more advice,
read the chapter on In Trouble With The Law.
Working as a DJ
Working in clubs abroad is not as hard as you may think, although the pay is likely to
be restricted to board and expenses. Budding DJs will need
their own records, something that obviously needs planning.
You're unlikely to lug mountains of vinyl around on the off
chance, but most people looking for work leave them in a left-luggage locker and
chance their arm.
Often the right accent, the right record names to drop and a convincing sounding
DJ history (even if it's three nights at The
Wheeltappers and Shunters, Armley) will go far in a world that often slavishly
follows Western Europe and the US when it comes to dance
music trends. Happily, though, a lot of the world has yet to discourage enterprising
and talented DJs, a complaint you hear more and more in the
UK. So if you know you can mix and entertain a crowd
- rather than just think you can - give it a go.
The up and coming scene
If you really want to join the club of 2010, who will confidently and dismissively claim
that "it was better in 2000", then you
should know that Eastern Europe is rapidly destroying its reputation for bad
haircuts and worse music. A refreshing lack of cynicism and pragmatic creativity is
throwing up some enterprising and forward-thinking clubs. A recent trip to Talinn in
Estonia revealed hidey-holes such as Club Enter - an internet
café by day and
drum'n'bass sardine tin by night. DJs returning
to the UK are also talking of small but growing club scenes in
Prague, Moscow, Warsaw and Helsinki.
Canada is also emerging from America's shadow -
particularly in Vancouver. The happy coincidence of a snowboarding community,
beautiful scenery, and the same idealistic anti-corporate vibe that spawned such
places as Goa are coming together to offer more fine venues to dance until
sunrise.
Have a great time
And don't forget - if you're
setting off on a trip around the world there's much, much more to
travelling than music and dancing. Make the most of every place you visit, see the
sights, meet the people and take time to relax. Nightlife is all very well, but the
world looks better in daylight. Have a great time.